May 30, 2009 – Sat / Madaba, Jordan (holly land)

from:                 Aqaba
to/stayed:          Madaba (small town outside of Amman)
Travel -  flight on Jordan Air

Phew!  What a pace!  I really did so very much yesterday (Petra to Aqaba & excursion to Wadi Rum), today was even more!  I’m really running out of steam trying to squeeze the last bits in.

Royal Jordanian Airlines is one of the best rated in the world.  I think I was expecting a lot, and it was a short domestic flight (much cheaper than a taxi across the country), but it was just OK.  The transfer and trip went smoothly.  My second time in Amman Airport, I was a little better prepared for the taxi plan – just went of the preprinted price list to Madaba, and was off.  Short trip, and only a little confusion bout the hotel location.

□          Mosaics – I choose Madaba, from my research, recommendations, because it is closer to the airport then Amman, and small, avoiding all the congestion of the modern city.  Amman is NOTHING like Damascus.  It also is closer to the Dead Sea and the areas famous from biblical times, and it is famous for its mosaics, in particular an ancient mosaic map in an old church there, which when discovered, gave historians a lot of valuable information, putting together history.

I walked around, seeing the church, mosaics, etc. & got lunch, but only after checking in, telling the hotel my interest in going to see some of the nearby sights heading toward the Israeli border, toward the Jordan River.

□          Jordan River – Early afternoon I returned, and had what is basically a taxi driver that takes people around to the sights.  We started at Mt. Nebo, where Mosses saw the promised land; then though some very interesting country side (the land where Jesus was), to the Jordan River.  It was confusing at first; he dropped me at a “waiting” place for yet another bus, to take us onward.  I eventually figured out (with some French tourists on the “bus”, more like open truck bed), that this is literally the Israeli and Jordanian border, and so, was militarily controlled.  You HAD to go the last leg, to the border with these authorized guides.

It was along the Jordan river, we went on a maybe mile loop, hike through very nicely developed paths, trees, and nicely landscaped area.  We went to the spot where Jesus was baptized by John the Baptist.  The river was little more then a stream in places, not unlike the creek behind my house where I grew up.  10 feet across, the other bank was Israel.  I went and put my foot in and was ready to move on… ha ha  It was HOT!

□          Dead Sea – The last stop, as it was getting pretty late in the afternoon, was the Dead Sea.  Well it is ALL RESORTS!  I mean, modern, polished resorts!  You could only get to the shore though one of the hotels which charge for their multi tiered, multi pool, cafes, showers (with attendants), fancy place.  I only wanted to go down to the Sea shore – and did, played in the water – you FLOAT virtually on the surface (I can see where the walking on water came from) – the salt content is so high, nothing can live in it.  I also found it interesting the thick layers of salt deposits on the bottom, you didn’t walk on sand, but rather a solid salt cake surface under the water.

By the way – I was at the highest large body of water, lake Titicaca (nearly 3 miles in elevation), and now the lowest, at over a quarter mile below sea level.  Dead Sea is small though, you can easily see the other side, whereas Lake Titicaca, you can be in the center and still not see land in any direction. – I stayed at the Dead Sea only a couple hours as it was getting late, and I wanted to relax and have dinner my last night! –

WOW! What an intense (number of things crammed in) last two days!

□          Taxi – Back at the hotel, before going out for dinner, I asked the woman about a taxi for the morning to the airport (she quoted me a better price than I anticipate, or paid there – my only positive taxi price surprise).  I asked it could be a different driver – so she naturally inquired, and I told here I didn’t feel entirely comfortable with him – and about not wanting to go to an upscale resort at the Dead Sea but his ultimately ignored that, and taking me where he pleased.  It seemed a struggle although I was very polite about it she got it and was genuinely very interested in hearing about it.

I just wandered in the town – Kinda wanted to take in the last bit.  I also get so terribly undecided about where to eat (my last one).  The woman also suggested a place, but upon going in, they were nearly empty, and when I asked for a table for one, they seemed stumped…. and after another person walked in, they asked if I would mind sharing a table with this man…..  !?!  I said no, I would rather not, and he said (mind you an empty place, though early before dinner time) we don’t have any tables for one, are you sure you wouldn’t mind.  I simply didn’t respond, there were so many many options, I left without a further word.

In the end, I went to an upstairs place, with little tables on a NARROW balcony, and ordered just mesas – it was PERFCET!  A little more walking around – in this little town with unfinished streets, and remote feel.  I’m going to end my trip with a brief sit on the balcony over looking the town, and go to bed.  Off to San Francisco tomorrow.