□          LONG FLIGHT! – The driver (taxi) the woman had called was on time, and they special, as I was leaving before the normal breakfast time, put out food for me.  Since I struggle with getting up late, I didn’t have much time, but a little to eat some, then took off.

This driver was more to my liking, not very talkative but friendly enough.  This hotel work out well, and although I was there one night, I would recommend it – and in staying in Madaba instead of Amman.

I was worried a bit about the flight since the Amman to London flight was limited to BMI (a cheaper British airline), and few other options, but they turned out great.  The cheapest low-budget airlines in all of Europe are still far better then the best in the US.

That was a 5 or 6 hour flight!  More then across the US, to London, then after a wait in LHR, was on United, through Chicago.  The return flight was uneventful – I intended to write more in my journal, rest catch-up, reflect, but I mostly watched movies, or slept.

In all it was about 27 hours (Madaba to home).

Phew!  What a pace!  I really did so very much yesterday (Petra to Aqaba & excursion to Wadi Rum), today was even more!  I’m really running out of steam trying to squeeze the last bits in.

Royal Jordanian Airlines is one of the best rated in the world.  I think I was expecting a lot, and it was a short domestic flight (much cheaper than a taxi across the country), but it was just OK.  The transfer and trip went smoothly.  My second time in Amman Airport, I was a little better prepared for the taxi plan – just went of the preprinted price list to Madaba, and was off.  Short trip, and only a little confusion bout the hotel location.

□          Mosaics – I choose Madaba, from my research, recommendations, because it is closer to the airport then Amman, and small, avoiding all the congestion of the modern city.  Amman is NOTHING like Damascus.  It also is closer to the Dead Sea and the areas famous from biblical times, and it is famous for its mosaics, in particular an ancient mosaic map in an old church there, which when discovered, gave historians a lot of valuable information, putting together history.

I walked around, seeing the church, mosaics, etc. & got lunch, but only after checking in, telling the hotel my interest in going to see some of the nearby sights heading toward the Israeli border, toward the Jordan River.

□          Jordan River – Early afternoon I returned, and had what is basically a taxi driver that takes people around to the sights.  We started at Mt. Nebo, where Mosses saw the promised land; then though some very interesting country side (the land where Jesus was), to the Jordan River.  It was confusing at first; he dropped me at a “waiting” place for yet another bus, to take us onward.  I eventually figured out (with some French tourists on the “bus”, more like open truck bed), that this is literally the Israeli and Jordanian border, and so, was militarily controlled.  You HAD to go the last leg, to the border with these authorized guides.

It was along the Jordan river, we went on a maybe mile loop, hike through very nicely developed paths, trees, and nicely landscaped area.  We went to the spot where Jesus was baptized by John the Baptist.  The river was little more then a stream in places, not unlike the creek behind my house where I grew up.  10 feet across, the other bank was Israel.  I went and put my foot in and was ready to move on… ha ha  It was HOT!

□          Dead Sea – The last stop, as it was getting pretty late in the afternoon, was the Dead Sea.  Well it is ALL RESORTS!  I mean, modern, polished resorts!  You could only get to the shore though one of the hotels which charge for their multi tiered, multi pool, cafes, showers (with attendants), fancy place.  I only wanted to go down to the Sea shore – and did, played in the water – you FLOAT virtually on the surface (I can see where the walking on water came from) – the salt content is so high, nothing can live in it.  I also found it interesting the thick layers of salt deposits on the bottom, you didn’t walk on sand, but rather a solid salt cake surface under the water.

By the way – I was at the highest large body of water, lake Titicaca (nearly 3 miles in elevation), and now the lowest, at over a quarter mile below sea level.  Dead Sea is small though, you can easily see the other side, whereas Lake Titicaca, you can be in the center and still not see land in any direction. – I stayed at the Dead Sea only a couple hours as it was getting late, and I wanted to relax and have dinner my last night! –

WOW! What an intense (number of things crammed in) last two days!

□          Taxi – Back at the hotel, before going out for dinner, I asked the woman about a taxi for the morning to the airport (she quoted me a better price than I anticipate, or paid there – my only positive taxi price surprise).  I asked it could be a different driver – so she naturally inquired, and I told here I didn’t feel entirely comfortable with him – and about not wanting to go to an upscale resort at the Dead Sea but his ultimately ignored that, and taking me where he pleased.  It seemed a struggle although I was very polite about it she got it and was genuinely very interested in hearing about it.

I just wandered in the town – Kinda wanted to take in the last bit.  I also get so terribly undecided about where to eat (my last one).  The woman also suggested a place, but upon going in, they were nearly empty, and when I asked for a table for one, they seemed stumped…. and after another person walked in, they asked if I would mind sharing a table with this man…..  !?!  I said no, I would rather not, and he said (mind you an empty place, though early before dinner time) we don’t have any tables for one, are you sure you wouldn’t mind.  I simply didn’t respond, there were so many many options, I left without a further word.

In the end, I went to an upstairs place, with little tables on a NARROW balcony, and ordered just mesas – it was PERFCET!  A little more walking around – in this little town with unfinished streets, and remote feel.  I’m going to end my trip with a brief sit on the balcony over looking the town, and go to bed.  Off to San Francisco tomorrow.

□          To Airport – This didn’t go very smoothly in my opinion.  The tour said transfer to the airport on the last day was included, but the guide was under the impression we were all on the same flight (for some reason….. odd, US is a big place), and in fact we were leaving at different times scattered over three days.  So they agreed, but it was an obligation the guide wasn’t planning on, so was weird despite this profession to eagerly do this.  My trip was “near” the time of two others that happened to be on the same flight, in fact, it was 3 hours earlier then mine, and I even choose the flight in mind I wouldn’t have to get up as early for my flight to Jordan.  But he took all 3 of us, and assured us he knew just how to get us through security and customs, etc.  I had to wait a lot of time, and at one point was stopped to wait in another area b/c I was so early.  The guide, didn’t seem to know the correct way to sort it all out, but was determined to present that he was in control, while obviously displaced at having to be there so long.  AKWARD!  It is odd, and not speaking the language I can see it being difficult, despite that it was a small airport.  Very small.  He spoke to more guards, I was placed to stand to the side while they put others through – finally I was allowed into the flight waiting area….. to wait more.  I honesty believe I could have done just as well on my own, though would have had to go back and forth a lot.

□          Trip – This of course was just the first part!  From Damascus to airport, customs, flight to Jordan, entry, taxi to Petra!  The Royal Jordanian flight was nice!  I also liked the airport, much more modern and fancy than the Syrian facilities I just left.  If it wasn’t clear before, development between Syria & Jordan, would be akin to Mexico compared to Canada (Jordan being Canada).  Don’t make the mistake of lumping these together.  Getting my visa in Jordan was easy EXCEPT you had to have exact cash, and fortunately I had just enough Syrian Dollars to convert to just, inside the jet way, enough Jordan dinar to pay.  Smooth – I don’t even recall any customs – until I got to the taxi area.  It didn’t look like anything that I read about in the travel blogs to lonely planet in preparation for making the taxi arrangements.  No internal taxi booths for set price, and the booths that were there looked like you were from Mars when you asked about a taxi to Petra.  Finally one place (a car rental booth) came back to me and said they could take me, but their price was like 3 or 4 times the price I anticipated from my research.  I was there for close to an hour trying to figure it out!  Frustrating!  I finally decide to try the push taxi men outside, against my better judgment.  Though it was more then I thought it should be ($100, maybe a bit less – my research was to be $50, but most recent info said would be closer to $85 – but not the $275 the other man wanted).  ALSO to my relief, the taxi guy signed a paper that went to another man, and had the printed set prices on the sheet.  3 hours, I didn’t want to be where this driver didn’t have accountability. – safe….  phew!  stressful, and disheartening. – In hindsight, I believe being on a local flight (45min from Damascus) I may have been in a different part of the airport than the resources were referring to in my research. – be warned in doing research for travel transfers on which area of an airport you maybe arriving.

The driver was very enthuastic, and even “bouncy”.  A heavy set man playing the radio to local dancy music.  Anyway, still uneasy (on my own now – and not a smooth process in getting a taxi), we were off.  After a bit, he stopped for a snack.  A road side shanty of a place among many, he seemed to know the guy being a fold out card table in a shed with no electricity on the dusty shoulder of a speedway road.  He asked if I wanted a sandwich, they are great…. it was piled high with some sort of meat, I opted for a bottle of water (I made sure was sealed).  Anyway, it was all innocent enough, but all the same I was anxious to get to the hotel, and $100 was more then I wanted to pay.

Upon arriving in Petra, the driver wanted the address, I think he was sure he was an expert on the area, but didn’t seem to understand the address at all, reading and rereading it, pushing his finger on the paper…. then started stopping everyone in the road for directions, and once or twice wasn’t enough, we slowed down and asked EVEYRONE, shouting out the window without stopping, and they all gave him some response.  He finally determined it was quite a ways South of Petra (not in Petra) and I realized he was going further than he expected since he didn’t get complete directions first.  So off we went.  My research on the hotel had me concerned about the distance (for commuting to Petra), but it also said it was worth it.  It was about 15 mins away, and was in deed a very nice reconverted Bedouin village, and made into an upscale hotel.  MUCH cheaper then the $300 to $500 / night hotels AT Petra, but required an additional $15 each way taxi trip.

The Hotel was like a village – was actually a renovated village, walking between the building was like a maze.  It was a very very interesting hotel, and highly rated my Trip Advisor (the way I choose it)

SO, after getting settled in, I told the hotel desk I wanted a taxi to Petra.  I was entering the park about 2p, which is late – it is so hot, most go early.  But I wanted to buy the 2 day pass, and see what I could today, and go back all day tomorrow.

□          Nael – The taxi driver that arrived, became my buddy for the next couple of days.  Interesting character!  He was Bedouin, a young guy and spoke very very bad English, and thought he spoke perfectly!  Anyway, I thought it was odd, on the trip over to Petra he cited me a round trip price, which is better – but wasn’t sure how that would work out!  At the Petra entrance, he insisted on not taking any money, and gave me his “business card” with his phone number and told me to call him when I was ready!  I kinda wasn’t sure… but went along.  In the end I programmed his number into my phone and called him several times after that – once while I was at a taxi stand – but he always showed up (enthusiastically) very quickly!  ha ha  odd, but worked.

So it is over a mile walk from the park entrance to the entrance to the Siq (the big crack), which is still further to Petra its self!  AND it is HOT HOT HOT!  Phew!

After being blown away by the Siq, in awe! – walking to the Treasury, that famous shot from Indiana Jones, I spent this first day focused on climbing the valley walls to the higher areas looking down (saving the main park exploration for day two).  Well it was a LOT of climbing…. I made it up to the Sacred High Place where sacrifices occurred.

When I got back (via Nael), I needed money so walked into the little town by the hotel where I saw some kids.  This was NOT a tourist town – and it was a really cool, little (one of those personal moments) experience.

Exhausting day – I came back and had dinner at the hotel.

BEFORE dinner, I saw they had a Turkish Bath (where men go to be bathed by men, in a sauna type place), and not having done that yet, decided to do it here, now.  Very interesting, and odd – I thought.  The “bath” (sauna) there was a very old one too, so it was I imagine, somewhat authentic.

I’ve just been too busy and no time left after multiple sites per day, eating and traveling….  in addition to the issue of Internet access.  Yes I might have it but still keyboards, connections, speed, etc. all combine to make it more of an issue.  Possible, but just not realistic so here I am fighting this keyboard height – my first entry in over a week – more than half the trip.

I’m in Damascus – Arrived today from Palmyra.  Have been seeing amazing history in sites – from 1,500 BC to before the rise of Muslim after 500 AD….  Very cool!

I’ll have to cover it mostly with photos, but I just can’t up load them so I’ll go back anf infill later with photos, but I’ll have to link to other or flick for more of the photos. – I take thousands on a trip (that is not an exaggeration, literally thousands).

INSIGHTS:

I’ve had a lot of little side conversations with locals – they clearly make a distinction between American government and the people, unlike the typical Americana’s inability to do the same.

The most over whelming sense I have here, I mean beside the great pride in HOSPITALITY, is safety.

SAFETY – Hard to explain but you just feel – or KNOW – there is no, nada, NONE… fear of being robed, or pick-pocketed, etc.  You can walk down the darkest street late at night in an area you know nothing about – and feel totally! at ease…. it is in the air.  The surprising biggest take away, is this feels like the safest place I’ve ever been ever!  Someone walking up to you when you are alone, or a group approaches you…. you are not afraid because it is so extraordinarily safe, even after a few such encounters you get it.

Central Turkey was very interesting with the geography – I really enjoyed this hike we went on (even when I had to do it twice looking for a camera part I dropped, but came back to find someone had already found it.  The exertions was great for me.

The tour experience… well I’ll have to go into it more later – and give it more time…. but too much food! Personalities make for an interesting aspect I should have anticipated… but there are also unique stories that evolved out of the group – albeit that we were pretty much insular form the general local population.  I learned some Arabic but had no opportunity to really be pressed to use it.  -  Have felt protected… too protected I suppose.

Saw camels yesterday.  The ruins at Palmyra were amazing – which I could take in even more.

There is really too much to talk about, and I do it best with photos, or augmentation to photos so I’ll add entries back in over the weeks after I’m back – distinguished with a “*” proceeding the title.

I really like texting people and talking on phone – ALSO  I don’t know who if anyone is actually reading this.  Just for confirmation, if you do read this drop me an email to let me know “you’ve read my blog” so I know if I should even bother… the obsessive effort.

□          Desert Trip – Thank god we have a nice comfy air-conditioned bus.  it was HOT!  (and in Palmyra).  Almost immediately upon leaving Aleppo, we hit desert.  Heading directly East (in the direction of Iraq) it is the beginning of the Syrian desert right away.  Flat & arid, there are few rough plants, and out in the distance, you occasionally see Bedouin tent-camps.  It wasn’t (at least there) the desert like you think of with dunes, and NO vegetation at all – we did see that later though!  In addition at first we didn’t make much notice then we realized we were passing truck after truck with tanks, and military equipment, and solders on the back.  Matt kept saying “tank”…. “tank”….  All coming toward us in the direction away from Iraq.  It was the army leaving that area.  We also passed some militarily bases with aircraft.

□          Animal stop – After a few hours driving, almost there, we stopped for lunch – in the middle of nowhere desert, was a building with a huge buffet type eating.  No one was outside, but it was nice – by a little artificial landscape feature, with little fountain (which kept it relatively cool) and rocks & plants.  We wanted to eat out there under the covering, though everyone one else was eating indoors – we were the only ones.

Then I noticed, beyond the landscape feature a pen of animals!  There were gazelle (cute!) and an ostrich, and chickens!  Odd that they were there – got chicken photos for Mary.

□          Palmyra – HOT!  Maybe I already said that – but GEEZE!  This is the well preserved ruins of a Roman city – it is HUGE!  However, it is so HOT, that after lunch we just checked into our HUGE (looked like convention type, in the middle of nowhere) hotel with into to cool-off for afternoon, and go out sight seeing later afternoon when it cooled.  A few of us went to the pool  Now this was a regular hotel swimming pool, complete with French tourist in swimsuits sunning by the pool.  My only swimming experience on the whole trip.  It was quite normal except that we were in the middle of Syria!, in a desert.

□          Palmyra – By about 4pm, we gathered to go see the ruins.  I’ll let the photos speak for most of it.  It was interesting, just a few people scattered out, and often seeing boys with camels lurking, hoping they can get someone to buy a ride.

The place was huge! While there were lots to see as we went around, one thing that stuck out for me personally was the amphitheater.  It was amazingly well preserved.  I mean when I’ve seen them elsewhere in Ital, or Greece, much had to be left to the imagination, here, you could have used it to make performances NOW.  It was interesting to see how it was set up, and the pit between the audience & stage, and the areas, for the actors and what ever, behind the stage backdrop.

ALSO – a bit of history: this is a low spot in the desert, and so is an oasis with water accessible below the surface in this area, although desert above.  It was VERY important point because; it was a 10 day trip by camel from the Euphrates (leaving ancient Mesopotamia), heading toward the Eastern Mediterranean, and trade routes to Europe.  Camels can only go 10 days without water & food, so this was a very important stop for all the trade routes between Europe & Asia.  It was a VERY important and powerful city with as much as 20% tax or more on traders to stop and party, rest-up etc. before heading on to Europe.  If they didn’t stop, they died.

We also went to see some of the near by tombs from the rulers of Palmyra.

There was also talk of the camel racing here.  Apparently, in this area, in the town near by here, they have the big annual camel races, the biggest most important on in Syria, and is the equivalent to football in the US, spectator sport.

At sunset, we went up to a castle that looked over the entire site, and we watched the sunset (with about 500 other tourists) over the Syrian desert.

□          Apamea – After leaving Aleppo, we drove for some time (in our bus) before reaching a very desert-y area.  I wasn’t sure exactly where we were going when we pulled into what looked like someone’s home in the middle of nowhere.  Chickens running around their yard, you could see the old woman sitting in her chair at the front.  But there was a small shop inside where we could get drinks.  The house they lived in (next to it) had no electricity though we could see.

This was the entrance point to a Roman Ruin live archeological dig (run by the Dutch) for recently discovered (well, like 50 years ago) Apamea.  This has the longest Roman City Colonnade ever discovered at over a KM long!  It was in the middle of no where, big dusty open fields, but some of it had been unearthed and you could see the formation of what was a HUGE Roman City.  SO VERY INTERESTING, it was dusty hot, and there was no one there!  Except about 3 young Dutch guys digging in the dirt, a dog, and a turtle I discovered, which the tour operator decided to take back to Damascus to his 5 year old boy.  This was amazing to see a great archeological sight in early repair and discovery.  Apparently this is bigger than Palmyra & existed about the same time (200ad), but Palmyra is fully unearthed, archeological discovery complete.

□          Crack de Chevalier – After leaving Apamea, we continued South to our next sight.  It was one featured on the tour description.  The best preserved, best example of the Crusaders Castles anywhere in the world, including all of Europe, Crack de Chevaliers. This was huge!  We spent some time here going though the multiple layers, and massive rooms of the ruins of this amazing castle. ALSO Perched high on a hill, it is situated overlooking a pass between the mountain range along the Mediterranean, and from the East (though the Syrian desert, or from the South & Egypt, was an important passage way for trade.  The castle could also see the neighboring mountain top castles, miles away.  We walk around the top of the walls surrounding it (as wide as a highway) – But I want to talk about 2 side stories:

1) We ran into a French tour group here that reported that they had heard there was American tourist someplace in Syria and were so fascinated to see/meet us!  While Syria is FILLED with tourism (especially the French), I suspect there is next to no American tourism, which is an embarrassment – with preconceptions.  But the encounter, and remarks was funny.

2) Before we went to the Castel, we had stopped for lunch and a simple (but busy!) little place near the top of the hill the castle is perched.  Our waiter…. how can I say….. to be direct was a screaming queen!  Limp writsted, witty, wearing some make-up, and DEFINATLY not what you would expect to find in the middle of the country in the middle of a Muslim state!  What’s more, we discovered he OWNS the place.  The inside story (our tour guide got for us) was there he was very very successful at his business (good at it too), and so his ways were sort of “overlooked”.  Something very rare in this very conservative country – but we stumbled across it.  Of course we all had a ton of questions, but that was about it.

□          Hama – PHEW!  What a full full day.  We arrived in Hama late in the day (maybe 5p?).  When we arrived on a small side street, we were met by all these very happy kids!  They are so full of life, such HAPPY people.

Hama is the 3^rd larges city after Damascus & Aleppo.  It is most famous for the “Hama Massacre” of 1982.  The Syrian army bombarded the city to quell a revolt by the Muslim Brotherhood.  25,000 people were killed.  Basically, they were a group that felt the Syrian government wasn’t inline enough with the Muslim faith.  Muslim faith is in itself a LAW, which explains many of the problems in the middle east since it is hard to separate a rigid doctrine religion from government.  So, Hama is obviously an especially religious area.  I saw NO women that weren’t covered here, and at dinner (we ate in the hotel) at the evening prayer, they stopped serving and stopped music, just stopped! until it was over. (maybe 5 mins.)  The hotel is a converted house.  It was the house that one of the founding members of the Baath party once lived.

□          Water Wheels – I went out on my own before dinner.  Everyone was so so tired from the day, I later discovered, almost no one did.  I bumped into our group leader, Eric, in the streets.  I think he was surprised because it meant heading out in an unfamiliar location alone.  For me it was like a “normal” vacation at that point.  Really was odd for me the tour group experience, everything so controlled.  Anyway, after dinner, Eric was going to take us out to see the Water Wheels the city was famous for, at night walking through the city.  Almost no one went!  Just me, Eric, and one of the others.  In the end most people saw nothing of Hama – EXHAUSTED! but I went out twice!

PHEW!  What a full day.  VERY VERY TIRED!

□          Today was to be all about seeing Aleppo (no bus!).  In the morning we went to see the main Mosque, and walk though the Souq – generally taking in the sights of the OLD TOWN, staying just within this portion of Aleppo.  This is the ANCIENT part – it is literally the oldest continually inhabited city in the world (oh yea, Damascus is too – well these two cities both claim it, in reality I think one was inhabited 12,000 year and the other 12,001 years… who cares! it is F’n old!)  Anywhere you go, the people, the buildings were all so interesting.

□          We ended up for lunch at a 2^nd floor café that overlooked the entrance to the main Mosque (where we just were) AND! it is FRIDAY!  The Holly day.  The Muslim work week is Sunday though Thursday.  So as we sat down for lunch, the midday call to prayer started (the most important one, on the most important day of the week) – Phew did the people start pilling in below us.  It was a perfect stage.  -  ALSO as I was having difficulty with all the meat we were being given, today was all veggie plates.  hummus, etc.  YUM LUNCH!

□          After lunch we went to the Citadel.  The museums and sights were filled with local Syrians, also on holiday or taking the kids out on the day – who knows, but it was lively (not with tourists from other countries anyway).

□          Form the Citadel, I had my orientation, and went to the markets where I bought soap!  Aleppo, Syria is famous for its soap, which is sold according to age, the older the better, and is made from olive oil.  It dates back to the time of Cleopatra, which sent for this soap in this part of the world.  Also Queen Zenobia is said to use it.  It seemed like the best, consumable, souvenir material, so I got the 7 year old soap (the oldest and finest quality).

Later, after walking around the cool old streets, and going back to the central mosque on my own, I made it back to the room for a rest, and hang out with the guys in the court yard area for some beers.

Both nights, in Aleppo, I used the downstairs bathroom, with the huge marble tub, filled with water, and used the salts and aromatics they provided.  It was so so relaxing to just do this.

We went out at night to dinner to another place, nice but not particularly unusual.  I do remember, this was one of the first nights, Eric just let us pick something off the menu, rather then ordering an assortment as in the past – which ended in too much food, and made us all feel badly at leaving so much.  It works better.

□          Border Crossing – We were close to the border already in Gaziantep, so it was a short ride.  We seemed to be (as a group) more occupied with saying bye to Leese (the female guide in Turkey).  We would be leaving laterally her on one side of the border, and meeting a new guide (for Syria) on the other.  The border was about a half-mile wide with armed guards, fences, etc. on both sides.  Since we were also leaving the bus & driver (for another) we had to arrange to take a taxi across (special taxis allowed to do this, and for I imagine very high price).  So we had to take 2 (to fit us) but while they were waiting for another, the group leader was clear we weren’t to be split up during the crossing (in the event there were any issues, we wanted to be together).

HOWEVER, I was in the first group, and the taxi driver just sped off! Leaving the security of our Arabic speaking leader behind us waiving, shouting what I think was “stop” in Arabic to the driver.  We 4 (in the taxi) were all horrified!  No idea what was going on.  At the other side (some drive away), there was another guard house, the Syria Flag, armed guards, etc.  The taxi stopped at a little house before the main military building and motioned for us to all get out.  We didn’t!  All staring at one another  “where is Eric!”.  The driver insisted, and 2 armed soldiers came up as well, laughing.  guns…. we complied.  They wanted our passports, (took them away from us) then took us into the little building and got this device out and wanted to stick it in one of the guy’s ear!  We were freaked out!  Until shortly there after we realized it was a thermometer!  They were just taking out temperature.  By that time, the guards (laughing all the while) the other Taxi & our leader showed up.

THEN we waited.  Eric told us to NOT GET OUT OF TAXIS, we were split between two), and went in the building for the longest time.  Hot, uneasy…. it seemed odd, that he wouldn’t need us there, to go through customs….  We weren’t sure where our passports went…. After some time, we saw what looked like a general come out and stick his head in the taxi (with the other 4 guys) behind us.  Talking & talking – we were “uh oh! What is wrong, where is Eric!?” Then he came up to us…..  Looked in and said something in Arabic…..  just stared for a moment then said “OBAMA”, smiled and gave thumbs up sign.  We all started laughing (nervous).  Then in some broken English, very casually, asked us about where we were from in the US, what we did in Turkey & where we were going.  It honestly seemed like casual conversation, curiosity and actually “questioning”… opposed to checking us out – still not sure.

Then Eric came back with the passports, we drove 10’ past another chain link fence gate to where there was a van sitting with another 2 guys.  Our new bus & new tour guide (for Syria), and new driver.  What was especially odd, was the border crossing wasn’t at all busy, and the road that led out, was a dirt road, in the middle of a huge open field, in no where – in the HOT sun, nothing except our bus sitting there. – And we went off.

It was very interesting ride to Aleppo through Northern Syria.  We slowed down frequently for goat herders, farms waving.  It was similar to Turkey, but did have a different feel already.  WOW!  I’m in Syria!  I texted Mary!

□          Aleppo – A beautiful hotel!  Out hotel room is on two levels, with antiquities as decorations; a downstairs bathroom, and an open stair case.  This place is intended for royalty, celebrities, and the like.  In contrast to the simple life people live here, this place must be incomprehensible.  We walk back off a street into a long corridor that opens into a courtyard with pool, and lounging areas.  When we first went in, I actually was confused thinking we were visiting the inside of another museum.

Now I can’t say enough.  This place was AMAZING!  You were literally staying in a room that was a museum.  I got to see a few others’ rooms as well.  Each was very different, but I think we had the nicest one.

□          St Semieon’s – After our early arrival & checking in at the hotel, dropping stuff off, we were to meet to go out again!  We drove (in our Syria bus) out of Aleppo again, along some small roads about an hour that led us into & though some small small villages – on very primitive roads.  The route was taken intentionally to give us a presence of the country in and around Northern Syria.  This was amazing!  And equally amazed were the locals looking in the windows of this buss to see us.  The children as so delightful with uninhibited and abandoned joy in waving and saying “Hello”, their only known word in English, and one they ALL know and practice with great convection and consistency.  We reached out destination, St Semieon’s Basilica (ruins) which was the site of a famous monk who committed himself to live out his life on a column, literally, a stone column about 10’ in dia. on top, and about 30’ high, although it was raised (with him on it) to higher heights throughout his life.  Food was passed to him; he was there in the rain, and years after years.  It became a pilgrimage site for people to come visit him, 4 or 5 hundred years ago.

Seeming to be on queue! – Moments before arriving, the guide was talking about the Islam religion, and all the various forms, or “levels” of belief.  Muslim is a culture, Islam is the religion and as such there are totally non-believing Muslims (that may practice some traditions as they identify themselves as Muslim, while not being religious at all) to the very religious, devout followers of the Islam religion.  Much as it is in the US with Atheist to Right Wing Christians, and the other you know.  Coincidently then, after we arrived, we entered nearly the same time as two Muslim family groups, one very religious, and one not at all religious (you can mostly tell by how they dress).  They totally respect one another, but don’t mix (same as it would be in US – for the most part).  The “liberal” family, the kids came running towards us, as soon as they spotted us, to have their picture taken.  They wanted nothing more then to see their image on the back of the digital camera, then run away laughing.  Equally friendly and interactive, the rest of the family came to us, and we got to ask them a couple of questions (through our guide) about what they were doing.  The more religious group, were equally friendly with waving, but never approached us.

The return trip was much less interesting.  I realized then just how much of a “back road & small villages” the trip in was.  It really was quite a cool experience seeing those small villages.

I took a bath in the HUGE tub.

□          After we got back, and everyone had a break, several of us met in the courtyard by the pool to have drinks.  Pool: well, it is suppose to be for swimming, but they NEVER show legs in Syria, so being in a bathing suit seems just too wild!  It isn’t a pool like you think either, more of a fountain without the fountain.  But we had drinks brought to us.  It felt, middle eastern decadent, harim-esque (I guess).

I couple of the guys used the Turkish Bath (Hamam) here at the hotel (a fancy one), and I want to try it, but I’ll wait for a more local experience.

So we all met to go to dinner together (as we always do – part of the trip).  Walking through the old walled city at night was just fantastic.  The Souk closed could seem spooky and dark, but somehow didn’t.  I ALWAYS feel safe here.  Hard to explain.

We went to a place called “Sissi”, I thought he was joking until I saw the sign!  It was a converted OLD (now I mean OLD) home, and very nice.  After, I didn’t want to see more of the city, but the promise of another early morning, that was about it.  Oh there was the moment of us all trying to cross a large intersection.  You know that CARS, not people, have the right of way, and if you get hit by a car, well that just means you were in the car’s way.  With this in mind, crossing a 4 lane road with no stop signs of lights is a new experience!

→         TIB BITS – My first time to do an organized tour, and one thing that has me kinda amazed, is the number of support people!  <seems like justification for a whole lot of added cost in an almost “neurotic” hierarchy to people involved>. There are 7 (only seven) of us that are actually on the tour.  We have a tour leader, from the company in the US with us the whole time; then we have a local area guide (we had one in all of Turkey and another with us throughout all of Syria); then there are the drivers (we had three or four throughout); and if we are at particular sights, we may have another guide (in addition the group leader & the local guide) that joined in for just that sight.  None of this includes the myriad of people that took our bags, met us at restaurants, hotel staff.  There were points where us on the tour nearly because the minority!  Leader + Local + Sight + driver + misc. at cooking school, balloons, or restaurants. (frequently as many as 6 people for just 7 of us in the tour, all being paid).  Kinda inefficient!

□          Balloon flight – Wow! this was planed for the trip but the surreal experience was much more than I expected.  You should see my video:

We got up really early, I think 5am.  Not all, only 5 of us went on the trip by our tour bus out to a large open field maybe a half hour from the hotel.  To my surprise there were literally hundreds of balloons spread out over several miles.  It was huge! and odd because we were in the middle of nowhere.  It was COLD while we waited around with many other people in little groups here and there and after maybe half hour or 45 mins. they started filling the balloons and they went up quickly.  It wasn’t clear how, but we were, as a group, taken over toward one of the balloons along with some other people.  Each balloon basket held about a dozen people.  You had to climb over the edge and drop down into “compartments” each big enough for two people.  Think egg crate, with a middle section where the pilot & assistant were. The sides were high (like to the middle of my chest) and where I happened to jump in was a corner compartments which was FANTASTIC, I had a particularly wide view.

We no more then got the last person in, scrambling over the edges, before we quietly, and effortlessly took off, softly suspended in air.  No one spoke; you only heard the roar of the hot burners shooting a huge gas flame into the balloon.  The warmth felt nice. Of course, I had planed far ahead (it was virtually the reason to get my superwide angle lens) my new Nikon D90 camera.  It shoots video; I had an 8GB card installed, and was ready to go, immediately filming in addition to shooting photos.

Our pilot was giving direction (via radio) to the hundreds of other balloons we could see in the distance.  Apparently, we had the head pilot.  He was clearly in amazing control as we approached close to one of the stone spires (very unusual land formations in this area) hundreds of feet up we pass by.  We went HIGH, then LOW, dropping into valleys with walls on both side, I could see the shadow of the balloon cast on the side of the hills as we dropped down into the valleys.  The pilot was quite good, and I was surprised at the maneuverability of balloons.

When we landed, to my surprise, he maneuvered the basket to land exactly onto the bed of a truck!  We jumped off and were greeted to champagne with the captain, in the grass, out in the middle of a field where we landed.

We returned to the hotel to gather the rest of our group (our tour leader, the 20-something from Michigan, living in Cairo) I discovered is afraid of heights.  The balloon trip was conspicuously the only thing we did he didn’t join us.

□          Hike – After getting everyone, we headed off into the country on some really interesting remote roads, headed down a valley until we reach a park entrance.  It was along a river where there were many other cars & people out.  Wasn’t sure what the plans was, but after parking, we started off on a trail along the river into the country side.

It was beautiful!  I really enjoyed this unexpected “nature” venture, a departure from the otherwise “sights” oriented trip so far. It was maybe 2 or 3 miles to the end where there was some elderly ladies making a flat bread.  We got some, sat and hung out for a bit.

I had an adventure at the end.  more than half way back, I realized I had dropped the lens hood of one of my new very expensive camera lenses.  I was determined to go back along the trail to find it, everyone was hiking so slowly for me, and I figured it would be no problem.  Well it was quite a bit further, and I ran/jogged most of it all the way back.  It must have been a 3 or 4 mile run I made and by the time I caught up with the group, they had gotten all the way back, and went to a place for lunch.  For a moment I was afraid I wouldn’t find them…..  I had no luck (didn’t find it), although upon return, someone else on the trail found it and handed it to someone in the group.  YEAH!

Phew!  What a run, and the funniest thing:  There were a lot of kids on the trail, I’m guessing it was a school field trip destination.  The only work they all know in English is “hello”, and they are eager to use it.  As I passed them, “hello”, to which I replied “hello”, and it went on to the point I was just laughing out loud at how silly. “hello”, “hello”, “hello”, “hello”……

Lunch was very nice – by the river, by a bridge at a location with many restaurants together, all open out to the river.

□          Underground city Derinkuyu – Next, we headed to the famous more than 2 or 3 thousand year old underground cities.  They go as many as 7 stories of underground passages, rooms, storage…. even for the Animals, cows, chickens….  It was a protection, and the entrances could be sealed with HUGE stones, and the entrances weren’t marked.  If invaded, the people could literally disappear from the land, for months living underground.

Upon arrive, Eric told us that if anyone didn’t want to go, they could wait above.  I was confused until I realized it was going to be very very claustrophobic.  I was also surprised, out of 7 of us, only 4 went.  They said our last chance to turn around (due to the small passages) was level 2, were one of our group bolted off!  It didn’t bother me, but only 3 of us went though to the 5^th level, the extent of the tour.  Fascinating, and dark, damp… well, underground!

TODAY was a unique day with acrophobia from the balloon, claustrophobia underground, and the exertive hike trip.  There were only a couple of us that in the end, did everything for the day.  Today was defiantly the “adventure” oriented portion, and easily could have been the whole trip for me.  The organized tour thing is generally pretty tame for me.

□          Cave Dinner (woman & son… singing) – We had a build up for the special dinner they had in store for us tonight.  It was suppose to be something Eric & the Turkey tour guide Leese, had arranged, but ended up having more to do with the lady that owned the Cave Hotel.  They took us to a small nearby town, where at one end (within the town) was a isolated natural rock formation “valley” at the end was a huge cave in the face in which was an outdoor restaurant – a nice one.  The place was shut down special just for us!  The woman who owned the Cave Hotel knew the owners of this really special, not known about place.

It was a nice ending to our stay in Cappadocia region.  Leese had brought her guitar on the plane and we saw it, wondering… after dinner of what was nearly our last night in Turkey she began to play, and alone with the Cave Hotel woman and her son (who came along – teenager), sang!  It was really personal and cool.  They mostly wanted to sing American songs, while we kept encouraging them to sing Turkish songs…. I guess the idea was they wanted us to sing along.

□          Flight – today we got up early to leave Istanbul and take our only flight together as a group.  We got on our bus and went off to the airport and checked in together at the Istanbul airport.  It was really quite uneventful since it was a local flight (i.e. not international).  It was interesting see all the local Turkish people with their sometimes tied together with rope bags & boxes.  We waited a bit together (all tired) and boarded the flight sitting in different areas.  The arrival airport was quite small, as we piled off on the runway and walked into a small, crammed with people area to wait for bags. – Outside, we had a new driver and bus waiting for us.  This bus was much larger and “fancier” with a built in fridge – but this was also to the bus on which we did the most traveling.

□          Goreme – Pronounced like Gourmet food, I was expecting yummy food!  ha ha  Our first area to visit, it is an area with these strange land formation, these stone spires, and ancient people (and I guess some contemporary too) lived inside.  The soft stone is easy to carve out, and very well insulated from both the heat & the cold.  Our first stop was a restaurant in the area, then we went to a protected park called Goreme (an old city that once was there) with all these homes, and most interestingly, chapels, carved into these caves with amazing paintings.  Very interesting.

□          Mushroom rocks – we then went to see an area with other interesting natural rock formations that looked like GIANT mushrooms.  There were more cave formations here too, and I climbed up some steep ladder to get into one, to find some ancient wall paintings – totally unprotected, just there.  Kinda amazing.

In the entrance area, I saw my first camel today!  I was so fascinated, but it really wasn’t a big deal there.  You have to see my photos attached of the mushroom rocks.

□          Then we went to the small town, and just above in the hills, our cave hotel!  Called “4 rooms”, is a very small specialty hotel with 5 rooms (not sure why it is called 4 rooms), that the 7 of us split up into.  This is suppose to be the most famous hotel in the area and had outstanding reviews from Trip Advisor – in fact, it was in the top 1% of all hotels in the world.  I’ve used Trip Advisor for years, and have never see a hotel with a higher rating. – I quickly learned the reason, aside from being very unique, is the people.  They became our family, as we stayed here two nights.

It was early afternoon, so first thing, with my roommate, we walked down the hill, about a mile, by homes and a few businesses, to the center of town, to look around, buy post cards, etc.

Later, I went back and this is where I ended up buying my “Turkish rug” ha ha – it was a maybe 16 inches square small rug – but authentic, marked from natural dyes, an in a classic pattern.  I got a small one for the purpose of getting one while being able to carry it along with me.  In the traditional mode, we had tea and pleasant conversation with the merchants.  It wasn’t intimidating high pressure as it was in Istanbul.  This is the country.

Later, we had dinner, I was expecting out, but was at the hotel – everything was done just for us, as we were the only guests – and they cooked just for us – sitting out side, it was so amazingly personal.  The host (I don’t remember her name), from her manner, and they way she spoke, you would just assume she was American – and very laid back.  It was a pretty cool experience.